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When to plant
Autumn - is the best time of year for planting.
Cooler weather and some rain allows plants to recover from transplant
shock and begin growing before following summer.
Winter - is also good (though less enticing
for the gardener). Plants may not seem to be growing but roots will
be establishing for spring growth.
Spring - plants take off quite quickly when
planted in spring; however lack of time to establish an extensive
root system means summer watering will be a must.
Summer - this is the most difficult time
of year to try and establish plants. All new plants will require
constant monitoring (if you are going away, ask a neighbour to water
for you).
2. Before planting
Soil preparation - anything you can do will
be useful. The more compost that can be added to sandy soil the
better (it increases water holding capacity).
Mulch - there are a range of mulches available
- anything is better than nothing, apply to a depth of about 8 -
10 cm. Local councils often have a free supply to residents.
3. Planting day
Soak the tube or pot in a bucket of water,
you may see bubbles coming up out of the potting mix - when these
stop the plant is totally hydrated.
Dig a hole slightly deeper and twice as wide
as the pot. If your garden bed is mulched, scrape the mulch back
before digging. The plant must be planted into the soil, not into
the mulch.
Loosen the roots with your fingers - this
will encourage roots to spread out into the surrounding soil. There
are just a few species that may not appreciate their roots being
disturbed (eg. those in the Epacris family) - if the roots are fine
and hair-like then leave them alone.
Use water crystals to conserve water in the
root-zone - really good for fast-draining sandy soils. Wet the crystals
first, and when they have stopped expanding put a scattering at
the base of your planting hole.
Once the plant is in place, backfill the
hole ensuring the plant is just slightly below the general soil
depth in a "well" about the size of a large dinner plate. This will
create a miniature water catchment for each plant.
Replace the mulch up to the plant but not
contacting the stem. It is important the stem of the plant is not
buried in the mulch as this may lead to rotting and fungal infections.
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4.
Watering
At planting - every new plant needs a good
soak to settle in. Planting just before a rainstorm is a great idea.
To encourage a strong root system deep and
infrequent watering is better than frequent and shallow watering.
Make sure water is directed at the roots of the plant and not at
the foliage.
Plants suffer from both under-watering and
over-watering. Once established, most local native plants will not
require any watering through autumn, winter and spring. The amount
of summer watering required will vary from species to species. The
best way to know how much you should water is to observe your plants.
Look for signs such as plant tips drooping or strappy leaves curling
up. You may be surprised how little water some plants need - water
can then be directed to the plants that most need it.
Using grey water on our gardens is a great
way of using less water straight from our taps. For more information
on this topic visit the Sustainable Gardening Australia website:
www.sgaonline.org.au/info_greywater.html
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